Author Topic: Brake Question  (Read 1007 times)

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Brake Question
« on: March 31, 2005, 08:48:33 PM »

Well next week I plan on changing out my pads at our little garage day.  

The other day I read that when changing pads you should also change to new rotors because the old rotors are grooved from use and the new pads won't form to the rotors, is this true?

Money's a little tight since I just got new tires, so if I don't need to change the rotors I may not get them right now.  Although it's my birthday next week so if I get any money for that I could possibly get new rotors.

2003 Gti 1.8T


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Brake Question
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2005, 08:50:14 PM »
I didn't change my car stops fine. It squeals a bit, but that's always happened.
I think it's best to change your rotors with your pads, but not entirely necessary.
'03 A4 1.8TQM
'68 MG C
'06 4Runner

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Brake Question
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2005, 08:50:14 PM »


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Brake Question
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2005, 09:01:47 PM »
rotors generally outlast pads under normal driving conditions.  if your rotors are in good condition, you should be fine, and your pads will set in fine with the propper bedding procedure.

if there is a huge lip on your rotors now, due to wear, you may want to consider some new ones


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« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2005, 04:20:49 PM »
Brake pads and rotors do not need to be replaced together.  Pads will easily conform to minor "grooving" on the rotors.  Warping and uneveness is the real devil, because this translates to a vibrating stress on the caliper.

Rotors can usually be "turned" once, and sometimes twice.  Turning = removing them, taking them to a machine shop, and having a small amount of material removed from them to make them perfectly flat again.  This generally costs about $8-10 per rotor.  Obviously you cannot remove material without eventually destroying the rotor --- the rotor has a minimum thickness, and you cannot "turn" or "machine" a rotor to less than that thickness.  The minimum is often printed on the rotor itself, and you can measure it with a caliper if you own one.  If you don't, a machine shop can measure the rotor for you and tell you if it's ok to turn it, or if it's too close (or under) the minimum thickness to turn it.

You also do not need to turn rotor (or replace) everytime you get new pads.  An unscientific (but cheap) way to go is to simply replace the pads and drive the car, feeling for pulsing in the pedal after pad replacement.  If you have pulsing, make the rotors a first priority for turning or replacing.  Do not drive the car for long with the pulsing, as this causes excessive stress on the caliper, and may cause damage.  It is not, however, cause for panic, just get the rotors taken care of soon.

Most important on the pad changing --- be very careful not to damage the rubber boots near the piston when compressing the piston into the caliper housing.  If you do tear the boot, you MUST replace it, which is a minor headache and expense.  I confess, I've done this.

Mike (aka Lila)