Author Topic: TREs: DONE  (Read 2852 times)

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jayryan

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TREs: DONE
« on: May 05, 2005, 12:07:27 AM »
So they're shot, that's completely clear now. I have both wheels off, one TRE halfway off and I'm thinking that's all the farther it's going to get.

It won't unscrew...will not, no love, nada, nothing. It's been soaking in WD-40 for the last three hours. My only other option is to go pick up some Liquid Wrench tonight, put everything back together and try again tomorrow. I've done everything I can and it won't move.

Suggestions would be nice, otherwise I'm going to try option B and if that doesn't work, I'm taking it in to have someone else do it. I don't want to spend my weekend on this. Maybe I'll entice Randy with a case or two of beer on Friday night :wink:

So yeah...I know they're shot though, when I attempt to turn the housing, it's not connected to the threaded shaft. Well, it is, but not very well. I get halfway around before it actually grabs 8O No wonder steering sounds like it's going to fall out!
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03Indigo

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« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2005, 12:31:42 AM »
several places have heated it up with a small propane torch, easily bought at home depot for about $25.  the heat helps them to come out, which is a common problem with those.

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TREs: DONE
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2005, 12:31:42 AM »

jayryan

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« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2005, 01:29:23 AM »
Yup. Talked with Randy, he's coming over tomorrow with the torch. How's your stuff going Jon?
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gragravar

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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2005, 01:32:31 AM »
And, I was just oing to say that it souned like time to bring out the torch!  

<bevis voice> he he fire! he </bevis voice>

Good luck man, that sounds like a PITA!
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03Indigo

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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2005, 01:33:31 AM »
check the modification section, you can see more pictures from today in my slammin' scooby snacks thread

Glad Randy is gonna help you out on this one...good guy.  A torch is the only way to go, just don't get things too hot, as that will affect the maliability-sp? of everything else.  Heat cycles are not great for parts that need to have strength, but some light heat is good to stretch thing out enough to loosen them.

let us know how it goes.

shummer

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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2005, 01:35:57 AM »
Give 'em the heater. Make sure you clean up all that flammable stuff first. Don't melt the rubber boot there. If that doesn't work, you'll have to get the whole tie rod assembly (the stuff underneath the boot). That's what I had to do. Dealer tried torching it first. Nothing. Turned into a $700 job for both sides. Sucks man. I feel your pain.

hotani

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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2005, 04:03:20 AM »
hehe, yeah - WD-40 burns really well!
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jayryan

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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2005, 09:58:26 AM »
Quote from: "shummer"
If that doesn't work, you'll have to get the whole tie rod assembly (the stuff underneath the boot). That's what I had to do. Dealer tried torching it first. Nothing. Turned into a $700 job for both sides. Sucks man. I feel your pain.


 8O Oh boy...

Before I put everything back together last night, I sprayed 'em both really good with Liquid Wrench. I had to use the car today, so I had to put it back together. Took me all of 10 minutes :roll: So, hopefully the LW is working it's way through alot of the rust.

Take two and a case of beer is tonight. These things are positively horrible.

Quote from: "hotani"
hehe, yeah - WD-40 burns really well!

I have a grill at home that doesn't scorch things so well. I've been known to use flammable sprays to make it happen :twisted: FIRE FFFIRE! Did I mention I was in charge of controlled scrap burns in Cali?  :twisted:
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Cole

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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2005, 01:51:59 PM »
I did the TRE on my S4.  Are you talking about  the inner TRE not coming loose?  

Here is my tip!

Take the factory jack out of the truck(or trash, if you keep it there :wink: ) The factory jack has a grove in it for the body seam, this grove also fits the wrench you should be using on the TRE. The Jack will fit between the shock tower and the wrench.  Use the Jack for leverage! Go slow and it should come right off. Worst case you may have to "tap" on the TRE a bit(with a hammer, but lightly) while you are jacking.

This worked like a dream on my S4.  They really were not super stuck, I just could not get enough leverage to twist as hard as the Jack does. You may also have to unlock the steering and turn it to get the TRE in a better location....but you already knew that :D . Hope that helps.

Cole Ford
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jayryan

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« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2005, 10:08:28 AM »
Alrighty then, TREs are done and in and that wouldn't have happened with Randy his torch. I hope I don't have to do these again for a long, long time.

I feel like I have my steering back and I can feel the road again. Somethings still feels loose up there but I suspect that's due to me still waiting on the hubcentric rings Rob couldn't find when we swapped rims.

In any case, most of the noise is gone and my car doesn't like it's floating all over the place. When it does, it's due to wide tires and stiff sidewalls. Thanks Randy, as always.
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kraut-sled

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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2005, 06:34:30 PM »
No problem JR.  Thanks for the Beer!

I t is amazing what a littel fire can do :twisted:
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velo

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« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2005, 06:25:02 PM »
Hey JR, how much did your TRE's cost you?  Turns out mine need replacing too.  A shop near my work, RS Motorsports, gave me a quote of just under $300, including an alignment.  Doesn't sound too bad considering I don't have time to do them myself anytime soon.
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jayryan

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« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2005, 07:27:38 PM »
Hey Alan, what up?  I paid $110 for the OEM HD TREs through Avalon and $40 for the alignment at Stan's. After Randy took the torch to them it only took me about 30 minutes to change them out and get the wheels back on.
They're not the Meyle TRE's, but Lemfordor. Either way, the difference is ridiculous. The new ones are WAY beefier.
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