Author Topic: A4/B6 6 Speed Tranny Fluid Change DIY  (Read 1531 times)

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Gallep

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A4/B6 6 Speed Tranny Fluid Change DIY
« on: August 29, 2007, 03:33:32 PM »
Car was a 2004 A4 1.8T Quattro 6 Speeder.
I did this with 75k miles on the car.  The oil looked great still, so I guess I really didn't need to do this yet, but anyways, this DIY write up may get into some tedious detail for the noobies that may be interested on tackling this preventative maintenance task...

Here’s the main tool/supply list that I used;
•   Two jack stands
•   One hydraulic Jack
•   10mm hex key socket (for both drain and fill plugs)
•   Torque wrench (only looking for 33-35 ft pounds)
•   3+ feet of brake bleeder tubing (the clear stuff)
•   Funnel
•   Phillips Screw driver
•   4 bottles of Redline MTL or MT-90 Transmission Oil


Jacking the Car Up:
When jacking the car up, the goal here is to keep the car level and ensure the wheels can spin freely while in the air. Reasoning for this is to aid in draining and filling and running the car in gear after adding fluid again.


This is very tricky and dangerous with out the proper lift.  I’ll just show you what I did and what worked for me.  I AM NOT SAYING THAT THIS IS THE RIGHT OR WRONG WAY.  Just use some common sense and try shaking the car really good before getting under there.

I positioned the two jack stands under the front on each side of the sub frame

The rear hydraulic jack then went under the rear differential.  I positioned the wooden block so that metal nipple on the differential stabs the block to ensure nothing will move.


Draining:
Crack open the FILL plug FIRST.  Driver side of the transmission.

Bottom of the transmission. (Sorry about the blurriness)

If you leveled the car properly, you can actually take the fill plug out without too much oil spilling out.  Doing so will avoid the inevitable “chugging” action that will result in splashing and spilling oil in every direction possible…  Yes, this happened to me  :cool: ;After draining the fluid, clean and replace the drain plug and torque it to 33-35 foot pounds.  And just leave the drain bucket there for the filling process, trust me...

Filling:
Remove the Phillips screw that’s holding the coolant expansion tank and move it over.

There are two plastic tabs in the back of the expansion tank that require you to tilt the front of the tank up and pull out.  Careful not to pull too hard, there is an electrical connector with a wire on the bottom.  This is your low level coolant sensor.  You can disconnect if you prefer, but it’s not necessary.  This is where I found the easiest way to re-fill the transmission, from the top like this.  Looking through the space that you just made by moving the coolant expansion tank, you can easily see the filler hole, not in the picture of course :mrgreen:


Connect the funnel to one end of the brake bleeder hose and insert the other end of the hose into the filler hole on the transmission.  Careful, if the tube only goes in a little bit, you've hit the level dam.  The level dam blocks the lower half of the filler hole.  You can see this if you stick your head down there with a light.  You want to make sure the brake bleeder hose goes above that into the transmission about 2 inches, then you know you’re in.  Start pouring the oil. You’re full when new oil starts coming out. 

After you're filled up, install the filler plug (just snug that nothing will leak, you'll be taking it out again really soon).  Re-install the coolant expansion tank. Make sure every thing is clear of any and all moving parts like wheels/tires and axles.  Now this is where the car being level and all the tires can spin freely comes into play.  Clean yourself up enough to get back into the car.  Start the car and put in 1st gear, let the clutch out and let the idle speed of the engine spin the drive train.  There’s no need to give it any gas.  This process is just trying to get the air bubbles out that may have formed during the filling process and give you a more accurate fill level.  You don’t need to go into any other gears.  After a quick 10 second run idling in 1st gear, shut it down.  You may get some lights/chimes in the dash during this because you’re freaking the drive train out by doing this.  It will (should) all go away afterwards.

Re-check the level by taking out the filler plug again, add more oil if necessary, and install the plug again at 33-35 foot pounds.  Safely return the car back to the ground and you’re done.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2007, 05:23:35 PM by Gallep »

92UrS4

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Re: A4/B6 6 Speed Tranny Fluid Change DIY
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2007, 03:39:13 PM »
Nice write up Pete!

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Re: A4/B6 6 Speed Tranny Fluid Change DIY
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2007, 03:39:13 PM »

jayryan

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Re: A4/B6 6 Speed Tranny Fluid Change DIY
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2007, 02:42:55 PM »
Awesome Pete! I love the B6 A4  ;D
'03 A4 1.8TQM
'68 MG C
'06 4Runner

Eric18T

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Re: A4/B6 6 Speed Tranny Fluid Change DIY
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2007, 10:12:08 PM »
good info. but i think i will just pay randy to take care of this for me.  ;D