Rocky Mountain Club B5

Discussion Forums => Modifications => Topic started by: jayryan on August 13, 2004, 08:45:59 AM

Title: Oil Temp Guage Install
Post by: jayryan on August 13, 2004, 08:45:59 AM
I finally got my oil temp gauge running last night. It's been wired and installed but not hooked up to the sender. Here's a sort of write up on install with emphasis on guage and an understanding that you can install the pod, and run wires through your dash, into and out of your ECU box, through the firewall and into the engine bay. If you can't. Than you can find general instructions on CB5 with just about any electrical install.

The VDO gauge has install instructions, so follow those. Use extra long electrical wire following your guage brands recommendations for wire gauge to run your wire through the car. I installed my guages in the pod, but not onto the A-Pillar until all wire was run through the car to the necessary contact points. That gave me more freedom to run wire.

In the following photos my pod includes my boost gauge which I intalled at the same time(top=boost, bottom=oil temp)


1 wire is light
1 wire is power
1 wire is signal from sender
1 wire is ground.

Disconnect negative battery cable.

For grounding, I located an existing grounded wire and did this same. There's a million wires under the dash so you have your choice of grounding points and they're not hard to spot.

For lighting, I tapped into the existing wire for my dimmer switch so I could control my gauges along with all my other lights on the dimmer. This does reqire pulling the light switch is is not difficult as it just pops out.

For power, I ran the wire to my existing fuse box. I located a blank fuse slot with the recommended voltage and plugged the wire straight in. The local car parts shop or hardware store carries special fuse adapters specifically for this type of application. You can also wire into the back of the fuse panel. Your choice.

Signal send is self-explanatory. I ran the wire into and out of my ECU box and since I already had my boost vacuum hose going through and unused nipple in an existing grommet in the fire wall, I just followed the same path. There are a few different places for the wire to get through the firewall to the sender.

Then I disconnected my coolant resevoir. Only the top hose on the resevoir needs to be disconnected, plugged and moved to the side. The resevoir will just twist towards the front of the car, stay there and remain out of the way. DON'T forget to disconnected the electrical sensor wires from the bottom of the resevoir!

THere is now full and reletively unobstructed access to the filter flange and blank bolt. There will be a few hoses that may inhibit wrench movement, but nothing you can't gently move out of the way with your hands.

It was at this point that I installed my gauge pod to my A-Pillar. On to the engine bay.


The oil temp sender fits into the factory filter flange. There is a blank 5mm allen bolt that AEB 1.8T's have that must be removed. The temp sender takes the blank bolt's place.

An easy way to identify this blank both is to identify the facty pressure sender on top of the filter flange facing the fire wall. On a clock, this would be 12. The blank both then sits at about 3 facing the coolant resevoir.

The oil temp sender I got is the 300deg. M10x1 from 42 DraftDesigns. This sender matches the 300deg. VDO oil temp gauge that I have installed with my VDO boost gauge in my dual A-Pillar Pod.

The blank bolt was really tight. I stripped it out. So I found my trusty Park Tool (local bike shop) with rounded hexes so you can screw/unscrew at an angle, and lightly hammered the 5mm end into the bolt. Lightly so as not to damage the aluminum. I got my small vise-grips and clamped it around the outside of the bolt and with both hands gently turned the bolt. It came free.

I unscrewed the bolt and inserted the new sender. Then I put a quick disconnect on the signal wire running to the gauge and hooked the sender to it. I couldn't get the old washer off the blank bolt so I used gasket sealer around it with no problems. The best way is to go down to your local hardware store or parts place and purchase a new washer. Without the washer, you'll leak oil and that's no fun.

Fire it up, go drive and enjoy knowing you have better indication of what your engine is doing. But don't forget to check for leaks when you get back :D

I've got the 42dd Blue Leds in my Gauges

Many thanks to:

Jon- 03indigo for the wonderful help and pictures that day.
Jesse- CRD99 for the info and insight.
Evan- 42 Draft Designs for the incredible service and support.